Do You Need a Facial Toner? - Stratia (2024)

Ever found yourself wondering, "Do I really need a facial toner?" If so, you're not alone. Social media is flooded with conflicting opinions - some dermatologists say it's essential, while other skincare experts dismiss it as unnecessary. To get to the bottom of it, let's first explore the history and purpose of facial toners and how they’ve transformed into the hydrating toner we see today. We'll also cover the benefits of using a toner, how to incorporate it into your routine, and the best facial toner for your skin type.

Before we dive into whether you need a toner and how to use one, we need to clear up some confusion about what a toner actually is. Much of the skincare community still holds onto an outdated view of what a toner is, making this conversation tricky. So let's rewind and first look at why toners were created in the first place - and then we'll compare that to what toners do today.

Skincare has evolved dramatically over the last century, advancing at a rate never seen before. This leap forward is thanks not only to scientificbreakthroughs but also to the fact that, unlike our ancestors, we're living longer and have the luxury to focus on more than just survival. Basic needs like food, water, and shelter are more easily met with modern conveniences like plumbing and grocery stores, allowing us to pay attention to appearance and health in ways that were once impossible.

According to Maslow's hierarchy of needs, once our basic needs are met, we can turn our attention to higher-level concerns like self-esteem. This often means that as we advance as a society, we see more individuals focusing on their appearance, prestige, or personal interests. The rise of factories during the Industrial Revolution also made it possible to mass-produce consumer goods, laying the groundwork for good ol’ American consumerism.

The end of World War I marked the start of the Roaring '20s - an exciting period in history due to its technological advances, lively music, and the rise of the movie star. With this came a boom in fashion and beauty, with women embracing bold makeup looks that included kohl-lined eyes, bright blush, and a defined Cupid’s bow. Naturally, with more makeup use came a need for effective skin cleansing products, which is where toners and other skincare essentials began to make their mark.

Soap, while a centuries-old invention, has never been skin-friendly. Made from wood ash and animal fat, it’s strong cleansing action made it ideal for household cleaning and laundry. As soap-making techniques improved, gentler versions for personal use became available, but they were often reserved for the wealthy. Later in the 1920s, brands like Palmolive would begin to mass produce gentler soaps infused with oils (a process called superfatting). However, even with these changes, soaps remained alkaline and drying.

These early toners served to rebalance the skin's pH after cleansing and were used alongside cold creams to remove makeup and soap residue, functioning somewhat like the double-cleansing methods we use today. However, the problem with these early toners was their ingredients, as they were inspired by medicinal tinctures and infusions from the prior century and could be harsh or irritating.

Ingredients in early toners

  • alcohol
  • camphor
  • witch hazel
  • tincture of benzoin
  • Borax
  • These original formulas were astringents, designed to act as part of the cleansing process while reducing some of the detrimental effects of soap on the skin by removing soap skin and re-acidifying the skin surface. But aside from a few outdated formulas still hanging around like a bad smell (looking at you Sea Breeze), this is nothing like our toners now. As our understanding of the skin has evolved, so has our approach to skincare.

    Traditional soaps have been largely replaced by “syndets” (short for synthetic detergents), a class of cleansing agents that don’t require a high pH to work effectively. Early syndets were often harsher, using anionic surfactants like sodium lauryl sulfate, but over the past decade, gentler alternatives have emerged. These newer surfactants allow cleansers to effectively clean the skin while maintaining the integrity of the skin barrier and its natural acidic surface.

    Instead of trying to mitigate skin barrier disruption after cleansing, why not prevent it in the first place? The decline in soap usage has subsequently decreased. The need for astringent toners also. This shift has allowed toners to evolve into their own, more skin friendly category of skincare.

    Toner vs. Astringent

    Then: astringents were used to remove soap residue, rebalance the skin’s pH, and provided extra cleansing of makeup or hard water. While they became an essential part of the cleansing process, skin was still left dry and tight.


    Now: toners are now a category of lightweight, water-based products designed to deliver water-soluble ingredients to the skin. Their function can vary depending on the ingredients used.

    The easiest way to understand toners is to think of them as vehicles to deliver skincare ingredients onto our skin. The term “vehicle” refers to the base of a skincare formula—whether it’s a toner, moisturizer, or serum—used to carry functional ingredients that target specific skin concerns.

    For example, while you wouldn’t want to rub pure Vitamin C (a powder) directly on your face, the right vehicle can dilute this ingredient and deliver it effectively.

    Vehicle Types

    • Toner: Water-based, lightweight consistency, applied early in your routine.
    • Serum: Often thicker than toners, usually perceived by consumers as more concentrated.
    • Essence: Sits between a toner and serum in terms of consistency.
    • Moisturizer: Combines oil and water phases, locking in hydration.
    • Balms and Oils: Waterless, perfect for oil-soluble ingredients.

    Once you understand that toners are essentially lightweight vehicles for skincare ingredients, it’s easier to identify what type of toner suits your needs. Typically, toners are applied at the start of your skincare routine and fall into three main categories:

  • Hydrating Toners are focused on increasing skin hydration, utilizing humectants to keep water in the skin. Example: a toner with hyaluronic acid and glycerin.
  • Exfoliating Toners may also contain humectants but will have exfoliating acids or enzymes (like a toner with glycolic acid) with the main focus being assisting in the exfoliation of the skin.
  • Cleansing Toners These are formulated to help cleanse the skin, often used in the form of micellar water or updated versions of older astringents.

  • When choosing skincare products, it’s essential to consider the entire formulation, not just one detail mentioned on the label. For instance, a product containing glycolic acid will be an exfoliant, whether it’s called a toner or a serum (though the latter can give you some clues on texture). Similarly, a toner with witch hazel can still provide hydration if the rest of the formula is well-balanced - and while an alcohol-free toner is more common now, alcohol can serve important functions and isn’t drying in small amounts.

    Hydrating toners are packed with humectants like hyaluronic acid, which keep moisture in the skin, while exfoliating toners contain acids like glycolic or salicylic acid to help dead skin cells shed. Choose a hydrating toner if your skin needs moisture, or go for an exfoliating toner if you want to target clogged pores or rough skin texture. And while not everyone needs a cleansing toner, they can be helpful on the go or for those who don’t like cleansing oils.

    In short, a toner is not a one-size-fits-all product—it can deliver different benefits depending on its formulation. Because knowing which ingredients to look for is just as important as understanding how toners work, I’ve included a list of my favorites:

    Toners for Oily Skin

    • Niacinamide: A multitasking ingredient that may reduce oiliness.
    • Green Tea: A soothing antioxidant with mild astringent properties.
    • Zinc: Antibacterial and oil controlling.
    • Salicylic acid: Penetrates oily areas of the skin and unclogs pores.

    Toners for Dry Skin

    • Glycerin: The unsung hero of hydration.
    • Panthenol: Healing, soothing, and hydrating.
    • Urea: Softens and hydrates.
    • Lactic Acid: Gently exfoliates while keeping skin hydrated.

    Toners for Sensitive Skin

    • Bisabolol: A powerful skin soother.
    • Aloe Vera: Anti-inflammatory and hydrating.
    • Oat Extract: Calms irritated, red skin.
    • Allantoin: Skin softening, healing, and moisturizing.

    Can’t Decide? Try This!

    Stratia Skin Aqua Factory:A hydration powerhouse that immediately hydrates with skin identical humectants while supporting long term hydration. Light but still incredibly hydrating, this is suitable for all skin types.

    So, do you really need a toner in your skincare routine? The answer depends on your skin goals. While toners aren’t as essential as sunscreen or a gentle cleanser, they can include an array of beneficial ingredients just like serums.

    In conclusion, toners have come a long way from the harsh astringents of the past which were designed to tighten skin, cleanse it further, and remove soap scum left on the skin. If you like to layer skincare or stick to lightweight steps, a toner may be for you. And the importance of hydrating skincare cannot be dismissed.

    References:

    https://www.dermatologytimes.com/view/are-facial-toners-necessary-0#

    https://www.cosmeticsandskin.com/bcb/skin-tonics.php

    https://chestofbooks.com/food/household/Woman-Encyclopaedia-2/Beauty-The-Secrets-Of-The-American-Beauty.html#.VaVLfPncB7x


    Mira is a skincare educator, blogger, and the content creator behindSkin Science by MiraandThe Skincare Forumon Facebook. While skincare keeps her busy, she’s also pursuing her degree in Nursing and loves to spend her free time hiking. As a content writer for Stratia Skin, Mira shares her evidence-based approach to skincare topics and a passion for making science accessible.

    Do You Need a Facial Toner? - Stratia (2024)

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